tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2022029458687683202024-03-21T10:47:32.944-07:00Marion's imagesMarionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.comBlogger480125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-63718015697618275092024-03-21T10:46:00.000-07:002024-03-21T10:46:47.407-07:00<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8aaIHLeN-TxrkQDzDqSu6yjbR1fdXnsYeVHpQuIrJqdypcnunZsQb91x7WEYwr-7kHPOsiYDnTIfGRPZg52HqzzbgH6JvdhTaTTx1BUdYxF2LlOFELxRFJNmlPHyIfPK1oUPa92wb3inunvQbV-Yl1pXYuCEHjtKEko6RYyWUfgghH9JKuCyb-llQbHLE/s4982/_X1A3365.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4480" data-original-width="4982" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8aaIHLeN-TxrkQDzDqSu6yjbR1fdXnsYeVHpQuIrJqdypcnunZsQb91x7WEYwr-7kHPOsiYDnTIfGRPZg52HqzzbgH6JvdhTaTTx1BUdYxF2LlOFELxRFJNmlPHyIfPK1oUPa92wb3inunvQbV-Yl1pXYuCEHjtKEko6RYyWUfgghH9JKuCyb-llQbHLE/s320/_X1A3365.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>This is the full moon taken in Canada a few years ago...I hadn't written in this blog for a very long time; often, I wonder what the reason was for that but now that I'm in my late 70s, it is time for some reflection and writing entries in this blog. Still love to photograph but now as the years fly past me, I am thinking more of the past and the future...It is very difficult to face the facts of life, that the best years are long gone and the rest of my life will be brief compared to the past...as a child, life and death, sort of are meaningless at times; grandparents die and you get some idea of death, but don't dwell on it at all..in your youth, life seems endless; waiting to be 16 to drive, 21 to try a drink..it all seemed so important but actually wasn't when I reflect on those years..I photographed a lot in high school, but not in college..and for many years only occasionally...it wasn't until I was 60 that I started to do some serious photography; learning to shoot digital, taking Photoshop classes at a local college...right up to now, I still love the excitement of a beautiful or dramatic landscape in front of me; I have travelled to many remote places...I don't like cities or crowds, but did go to Las Vegas for an aerial shoot from a helicopter...life is like a rollercoaster, there are highs and lows and sometimes just level areas...it is important to bounce back after very hard times, but sometimes, it is difficult; I am an optimist; but worry about aging and ending up incontinent or worse...that is the enigma of aging, the wondering what will happen if you live long enough and become someone you don't even know...<p></p><p>I have purchased the new Canon R 5 and plan to shoot as much as possible with this camera...it is a blast to use...</p>Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-50891746377910476902019-11-12T11:44:00.001-08:002019-11-12T11:44:30.497-08:00Trees and me<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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After a long hiatus, it is time to start my blog again...sometimes, there is nothing to write and other times, I have a lot to say, but don't write it in my blog...as the years flee past me, I vacillate with writing...and that is so weird, because I love words and writing.<br />
Anyway, here are my nemeses! The trees near me...walking in the woods, watching them change with the seasons and challenging my compositional skills over and over again...I can imagine them saying,"Here she comes, move closer together or further apart so she can't get a good image...make her work for everything." These three are not too bad; I wish they were better, but in my defense, my dog was with me walking in the forest and sometimes he gets bored when I stop to photograph.Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-17664906378305070822018-04-25T12:28:00.001-07:002018-04-25T12:29:36.681-07:00Weather and me<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This is Beavertail light, on the coast of Jamestown, here in RI...I can't count how many times this has been my shooting destination. However, the weather most of the time fails me when I get there: it is totally overcast with grey dreary skies without detail or clear, which for some reason, I don't like to photograph unless it is after dark and shooting the stars. The other day I was reading an article by Galen Rowell about photographing in less than favorable conditions; and he gave some good advice about taking the shot you envisioned anyway and throwing it away because the sky fails or the weather is bad. He said to change your state of mind and look for something that will work..the image above is an example of that: it was a horrible night, totally cloud covered without definition. Tried shooting in Newport, tried the Pell bridge area but all these spots had dead dreary skies...then drove to Jamestown and saw these stratus clouds below another cloud layer and they looked interesting...with only about fifteen minutes to spare before sunset, I took a couple of test shots and liked the movement of the clouds...I continued to shoot on the tripod and actually got a few images that I liked because I didn't give up... and I suppose I could have used my telephoto to get some rock and ocean images as a last resort.Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-27726561239643267592018-02-21T11:40:00.001-08:002018-02-21T11:40:04.719-08:00Trees<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I study trees a lot when I walk in the forest...these two images are a couple of trees after a brief snow storm before all the snow was blown off them. To me, trees are some of the most difficult subjects to photograph because of their unusual shapes, size and because, often, in groups they can appear chaotic. It is worth practicing on them...you learn to organize from the chaos which can help with other types of compositions...they are pattern, texture, and difficulty all at once...the image below is one of my more successful attempts with trees.<br />
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<br />Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-77670171549716664192018-01-29T11:56:00.001-08:002018-01-29T11:56:52.633-08:00Photograph what you love!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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There is something important for you to know: you do not have forever, all you have is time. Life is finite, do not waste it photographing things that don't appeal to you. Of course, there will be times that you have to do that: at events, or family gatherings. But on the whole, if you are out photographing alone or on a tour or workshop, don't go crazy snapping shots of everything you see...wait until something moves you emotionally, those will be your best images. It is important to practice and know your camera even in the dark; know the settings you will need to achieve your result...nothing is worse than messing around with settings while the light fades and disappears. I have a friend who shoots with me often; one night the sun was fading fast, we had gotten to our spot later than expected, but I had already set up my camera with 3 programmed settings and got the shots. He was struggling with his aperture, ISO and shutter speed, by the time he was ready, the sunset was over...this has happened numerous times to him.<br />
Know what you need to get the shot, have your ND grads and polarizer ready if needed..if you don't have time, bracket your images...you can layer them in Photoshop...<br />
The image today is one I took at a small brook nearby...I may have taken 50 different shots of the brook, but this was the only one that appealed to me when I was looking for compositions...I loved the translucence of the water as it rushed over the leaves...don't expect every image to be wonderful...I am happy if I get one great shot out of 100 or 200 exposures...Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-87304045768285466332018-01-26T05:29:00.001-08:002018-01-29T12:00:21.687-08:00Aging and photography Recently I have aged beyond 70 years...it still is a shock to me; sometimes it seems to me that I am still young but when I look in the mirror the reality hits really hard. My photography is still one of the most important things in my life: my creative outlet producing true moments of happiness, when I can focus on taking images of something that is beautiful or that is in some way moving emotionally. Last July there was a week aboard a steel sailboat in Disko Bay, Greenland. It was absolutely amazing when our boat first sailed into Disko bay from Ilullisat harbor and those massive icebergs were all around us. It was night. The time to photograph icebergs in Greenland is in summer at night, during the time of the midnight sun: the light can be amazing and the color of the icebergs striking. The nights are cold when sailing from dusk to dawn, and the glacial winds are freezing...but it was all worth it. Here are a few images from that voyage; I hope you enjoy them. There are more on my website...keep photographing and don't lose your joy for life and photography ever...<br />
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Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-70053228958691517332017-11-14T10:07:00.001-08:002017-11-14T10:07:20.729-08:00After 12 years of using a digital cameraI first began using a digital camera in 2005: it was a 2 megapixel camera...I was psyched! Wow...two megapixels. Today that camera would be junk, but it was my introduction to digital photography and I still keep it as a memory to those early days. The Canon Mark III is my choice today, with a Sony a6000 backup...I did own the Canon Mark IV for almost a month before returning it for a refund..why? Because the LCD, no matter what settings I used, never gave me the rich images I could see on my Mark III LCD..it may sound stupid and ridiculous, but I am a visual photographer; if the image on the LCD doesn't give me the tones and depth of color I need to give me an idea of how an image needs to be edited, I don't want that camera...sometimes, you have to realize, that technology and the latest model of camera aren't going to always be better for you personally...so my suggestion is: if you love the camera in your hand, don't upgrade just to have the newest technology, sometimes a camera you are accustomed to using that is giving you what you want is all you need.Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-811237851502490772016-11-15T08:15:00.000-08:002016-11-15T08:15:05.921-08:00Personal ProjectsThis is for you and for me. It is about the importance of finding interesting things to shoot during a normal day...not on a tour or a workshop, but at home or at work or out walking. Why is it important to have a personal project? Is it important or a waste of time?<br />
Personal projects are one of the most important things you can do with a phone or point and shoot camera. You carry a phone around because it is small and relatively obscure; easily put in a pocket or pocketbook, but it is your link to better photography if you know how to think creatively. You will develop a better eye for composition if you use it regularly.<br />
I often give myself little projects for the day or week when I am out walking my dog or driving around doing errands. Last week, even though I hate to compose with trees because they are so darn chaotic and difficult to make into a composition, the idea was to photograph trees for one week whenever I was out in the woods. Therefore, whenever I was walking the dog, I had my point and shoot or phone with me: looking, getting cranky, pulling ticks off, then looking for compositions again.<br />
Attached are a few images from my week, they are not great shots that will win competitions, but who cares?<br />
They are my practice images, forcing me to try harder to make sense of the forest and maybe learning a little more about graphic elements. You can photograph anything for a day or week..forks with different lighting, light bulbs, doorknobs, light fixtures; I have even stooped to photographing an old toilet discarded near a shed.<br />
Don't be lazy; make the effort.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYall_HTHKDjrjqLV5HG50r7ShyphenhyphenhmIbzqXs32Ij427gBtfQkIsDtR03s7MdqXmzRL-stijHtzxjTHtoPELKhXlHp-iqaSVstDLyU4cTgWzeu7yT3yQbtMjKZdpJXfwG9evBZ4bB_TgmUjX/s1600/IMG_0019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYall_HTHKDjrjqLV5HG50r7ShyphenhyphenhmIbzqXs32Ij427gBtfQkIsDtR03s7MdqXmzRL-stijHtzxjTHtoPELKhXlHp-iqaSVstDLyU4cTgWzeu7yT3yQbtMjKZdpJXfwG9evBZ4bB_TgmUjX/s320/IMG_0019.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-56888374563835292212016-09-22T09:49:00.003-07:002016-09-22T10:28:50.821-07:00Creating Images with Impact<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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All of us have seen photographs that move us emotionally. Images with impact or mood that have an elusive "something" that makes us go wow. It might be the color, light, composition or subject, but how it is presented to the viewer is what makes that image special. The Canadian Rockies are amazing in the right light, but pretty dull when cloud or fog covered. The ocean can be beautiful but it can be boring if the composition and light are bad. </div>
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Since I am primarily a landscape photographer, the light is critical to my images. In the wrong light or bad light, images can really fall flat...I speak from experience. </div>
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There is a learning curve to photography, it takes time to develop an eye for good composition and a feel for lighting...it has taken me years of practice (and looking at photographs and paintings by masters of photography and art) to get somewhat proficient. But there are many days when my images fall flat and must be deleted: don't be afraid to delete the junk! Some people never delete images until they see them on the computer, however, I will delete in camera if the composition fails when I review them on the LCD. You must be cutthroat about your images, because as good as you may be in Photoshop or Lightroom, if your shots are bad, admit it..why waste time editing something that should be deleted. Some people don't like to shoot at the same places; that's ridiculous...I keep going back to Beavertail or other areas on the coast because weather is always changing; even my attitude changes day to day..I might be cranky one night, but in a good mood the next: it will have an impact on how I photograph.</div>
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Here are a few examples of what I am discussing. The first one is taken at Ponagansett Falls in Scituate. Be patient! This night the sky looked like a dud, but as the sun set some clouds appeared on the horizon and things began to change..These three images were all taken within a half hour of each other.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YpegMMPDEdM/V-QI7R-LswI/AAAAAAAAEIM/UYqyEYltTDoXG24u2W39TiDGRgB4UfehACLcB/s1600/ponagansett.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="154" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YpegMMPDEdM/V-QI7R-LswI/AAAAAAAAEIM/UYqyEYltTDoXG24u2W39TiDGRgB4UfehACLcB/s640/ponagansett.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The next image is a wide angle taken at Castle Hill in Newport. I was moving around on the rocks looking for a good composition about an hour before sunset. Always try to get to your location at least an hour prior to sunset; it gives you time to scout for the best spot and do test shots. The second shot was taken as the sun was setting and the clouds and rocks formed diagonals leading to the lighthouse.</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--PqrOkXRGoM/V-QEKCIwgVI/AAAAAAAAEIE/6cZjCajkTPojXKVeTYLqNLDE28MXqV0JQCEw/s1600/lighthouse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="249" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--PqrOkXRGoM/V-QEKCIwgVI/AAAAAAAAEIE/6cZjCajkTPojXKVeTYLqNLDE28MXqV0JQCEw/s320/lighthouse.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The next image is in the Canadian Rockies...the first shot was taken without sun. It was cloudy and foggy but it was worth waiting for the sun to break through the clouds, because it burned off a lot of the cloud cover revealing the mountains in the background.</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ieOY1Ock9ow/V-QKIepx00I/AAAAAAAAEIU/sisMWjE9MtMtxMjUKKF2aN9sbY_qpI9RgCEw/s1600/Untitled-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="152" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ieOY1Ock9ow/V-QKIepx00I/AAAAAAAAEIU/sisMWjE9MtMtxMjUKKF2aN9sbY_qpI9RgCEw/s400/Untitled-1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The last one is the combined use of twilight and slow shutter speed. The first ferris wheel shot was taken when it was not moving but was somewhat lit near twilight. The second, which is obviously better, was taken at twilight when there were passengers and the wheel was turning.</div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2XjylUH97Gs/V-QKJpxbgjI/AAAAAAAAEIY/afwdgOtzFmM-jruFl71-YXF986BgbIsBgCEw/s1600/wheel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="229" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2XjylUH97Gs/V-QKJpxbgjI/AAAAAAAAEIY/afwdgOtzFmM-jruFl71-YXF986BgbIsBgCEw/s320/wheel.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I know a lot of photographers will tell you they shoot only at F8, the sweet spot on their lenses..that is nonsense. I shoot at F16, 18, 22...the diffraction is minimal with the newer lenses; I need to shoot at those apertures to allow light to hit the sensor a long time to get the effect I am seeking; F8 doesn't work for me unless there is wind, then I will use it on the foreground to stop movement..also, I use every filter imaginable on my lenses: soft edge grads, hard edge grads, NDs, polarizers, reverse NDs: whatever it takes to give me what I want... </div>
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To me, the most important thing about getting an image with impact is looking at the world with awe. Nothing is jaded to me. Think of everything you see as if it were for the first time.</div>
Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-88759104418541076212016-09-13T09:04:00.000-07:002016-09-13T09:07:24.977-07:00Photographing at Home<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Most people tend to do most of their photography when on a workshop, meetup, tour, or on vacation. The problem with this is that between those times, there is almost no shooting. The camera is put away until the next adventure; this leaves you at a disadvantage dealing with composition and creativity. To improve your eye, it is important to photograph consistently and in order to do this, it is necessary to shoot near home or even in your home.<br />
And it is important to know your camera well; this can come in very handy at night or when your flashlight fails. If you are struggling with your camera settings, how can you be creative? If you have custom functions, learn to use them. I am primarily a landscape photographer and have three custom functions set up for this genre. If I am under pressure to shoot as the light is changing rapidly, these are my fall back settings: they can be manipulated if necessary.<br />
A lot of you are saying,"It is boring where I live; there is nothing to shoot.". This is when you have to be creative and dig deep into your brain for ideas. The images I have attached were all taken in or near my house.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1_JzAm_lCnAwfqf7dxxs3ZkwP0HG42xoFkebzIAwJOcwARlQILAiou8AYy2uwqtk0a3N5ZP0itTYpmONyZXK2zhNEzAPmCiDWo7uxHhWsuVTDLLlCcEy86UktguxV1-ijk1jEsFs2jMgu/s1600/IMG_5943.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1_JzAm_lCnAwfqf7dxxs3ZkwP0HG42xoFkebzIAwJOcwARlQILAiou8AYy2uwqtk0a3N5ZP0itTYpmONyZXK2zhNEzAPmCiDWo7uxHhWsuVTDLLlCcEy86UktguxV1-ijk1jEsFs2jMgu/s320/IMG_5943.jpg" width="269" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is a light bulb in a dark corner of my cellar...I flipped the image vertically.</td></tr>
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The next image is a bunch of leaves on a thistle plant that I happened to pass on a walk with my dog.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VPUujIQaLMA/V9gigmJG2YI/AAAAAAAAEHc/jbKP8TCbTW8tnBBM5I0bvLtFoGdUznVBgCEw/s1600/IMG_0419.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VPUujIQaLMA/V9gigmJG2YI/AAAAAAAAEHc/jbKP8TCbTW8tnBBM5I0bvLtFoGdUznVBgCEw/s320/IMG_0419.jpg" width="234" /></a></div>
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The next image is a bunch of trees in the woods...nothing special about them, so I used a slow shutter speed and moved the camera vertically to get something interesting.</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aU5pOzBoXF0/V9gi5EllCEI/AAAAAAAAEHg/ZwD8aya3fZ4HyZrpnqGj1x-C5i2Pqqw3QCLcB/s1600/IMG_0596.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aU5pOzBoXF0/V9gi5EllCEI/AAAAAAAAEHg/ZwD8aya3fZ4HyZrpnqGj1x-C5i2Pqqw3QCLcB/s320/IMG_0596.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The final image is a coil of rope..that's it...it was at a boatyard lying on the ground. I picked it up and changed the shape of the coil so it had more of a vortex feel.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGlWE3GRa3ZwlhiMO3uP8f4VXn3fKuHbh8703EZ0UOqh6ui8SyQNcAlVvWjUWkNlyXAhN3PBqQfuZuFjbsqvz0lWirVdR7vYI6-r9-zttfCoo3Aj3MjByOrVgkUaX40Qp05LTRgxNCgQ1B/s1600/_MG_6130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGlWE3GRa3ZwlhiMO3uP8f4VXn3fKuHbh8703EZ0UOqh6ui8SyQNcAlVvWjUWkNlyXAhN3PBqQfuZuFjbsqvz0lWirVdR7vYI6-r9-zttfCoo3Aj3MjByOrVgkUaX40Qp05LTRgxNCgQ1B/s320/_MG_6130.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
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As you see, there is no great image here, but there is a learning opportunity. They are all decent images that gave me an opportunity to work with composition and creativity. And even with color.</div>
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Maybe you have to force yourself to do it initially, but the exercise is well worth the effort.</div>
Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-83837826117069906062016-06-29T05:41:00.002-07:002016-06-29T05:45:25.502-07:00Composing Creatively This image shows implied diagonals which drive the eye to the center and directly to the lighthouse. This is a very powerful way to get the viewer to look into an image. The clouds point to the lighthouse as do the rocks in the foreground...there is no doubt about where you are supposed to look. There is no escape from the dynamism; the use of diagonals aimed toward your subject is one of the strongest ways to lead the eye.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_V21eh3FSYE/V3O898IugwI/AAAAAAAAEEA/a0XXoTUQa-YaKyAz6yTj0nss0jrPw9bhACKgB/s1600/_80A4352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_V21eh3FSYE/V3O898IugwI/AAAAAAAAEEA/a0XXoTUQa-YaKyAz6yTj0nss0jrPw9bhACKgB/s320/_80A4352.jpg" width="206" /></a></div>
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This is a photograph with a diagram of the Rule of Thirds imposed. The rule is often overused but if you are a newbie photographer it can help a lot to achieve a better composition. When I began photographing digitally quite a few years ago, it helped me to superimpose the grid on my live view image, so try it and see if it helps with composition.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5CstU90SrnQ/V3O-7L95-6I/AAAAAAAAEEE/eAirK6Pkn-oFxYKU_FOVNo_YnHJeoeDuwCLcB/s1600/1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="207" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5CstU90SrnQ/V3O-7L95-6I/AAAAAAAAEEE/eAirK6Pkn-oFxYKU_FOVNo_YnHJeoeDuwCLcB/s320/1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The two images below demonstrate the use of time (with a 5 stop ND filter) to improve or change an image. The top one is taken at f18, 24mm and 15 sec.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig1Jx6UHHBsnK7tVUA5z07tcoZ9HefU00OxXNmfFYUGTaqRtuxkMpdLBPGIVPV-temf2g42KDLYPYMKXDQt3CUOqzesnRIQJkNc5OcV30UpkyBgJ0dFdvS3utAmFvc9o9Wgjabt3ituKpg/s1600/Castle+HIll+light.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig1Jx6UHHBsnK7tVUA5z07tcoZ9HefU00OxXNmfFYUGTaqRtuxkMpdLBPGIVPV-temf2g42KDLYPYMKXDQt3CUOqzesnRIQJkNc5OcV30UpkyBgJ0dFdvS3utAmFvc9o9Wgjabt3ituKpg/s320/Castle+HIll+light.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This image was taken with the same aperture and focal length, but with the 5 stop ND: the time was 150 seconds.<br />
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The feeling is totally different when an ND is used on an image..in the second image the clouds show more movement as they streak across the sky and the ocean is a lot softer. So it is important to remember that time can change the whole look of an image. Also, any people moving will disappear from the image at 150 seconds.<br />
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Who says you can't use bulls eye images, and have to keep things out of the center? If a subject is round, it works well.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z0alF3yzKe8/V3PARn0yPPI/AAAAAAAAEEc/JScpd5NhErQq6D9uLYr0mIZWfvsRkspKACLcB/s1600/_MG_2848.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z0alF3yzKe8/V3PARn0yPPI/AAAAAAAAEEc/JScpd5NhErQq6D9uLYr0mIZWfvsRkspKACLcB/s320/_MG_2848.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
and remember that a spiral can really draw the eye into an image:<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YzWrNBZ0qLU/V3PAk_XGEJI/AAAAAAAAEEk/ZSRt0xJX1SooIZT03y81sp2ycvb3dGSmgCLcB/s1600/_MG_3920.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YzWrNBZ0qLU/V3PAk_XGEJI/AAAAAAAAEEk/ZSRt0xJX1SooIZT03y81sp2ycvb3dGSmgCLcB/s320/_MG_3920.jpg" width="227" /></a></div>
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Curving shapes are also leading lines into an image; look for them everywhere: the curve of a beach or a stream. In this image of Mistaya canyon, the river leads the eye to the mountain in the distance:<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pkmiiKESFxM/V3PAuMjLFVI/AAAAAAAAEEs/MhiWTpodhb0tDYg2uPyMasqQrEzrOTXugCKgB/s1600/_MG_5798.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pkmiiKESFxM/V3PAuMjLFVI/AAAAAAAAEEs/MhiWTpodhb0tDYg2uPyMasqQrEzrOTXugCKgB/s320/_MG_5798.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Remember that while it is a good idea to keep the horizon out of the center of an image, sometimes with reflections it is best to keep the horizon dead center.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fxOWAr0vGq8/V3PBDiHfqzI/AAAAAAAAEE4/MoJL4ZyYSMEfCwWK_qv72cI9rhy47wKnACKgB/s1600/_MG_6636.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fxOWAr0vGq8/V3PBDiHfqzI/AAAAAAAAEE4/MoJL4ZyYSMEfCwWK_qv72cI9rhy47wKnACKgB/s320/_MG_6636.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Balance is very important to an image: light and dark must balance and act as counterpoint to each other. Look at Rembrandt's images, he is the master of chiaroscuro...he placed light where it was important, yet maintained dark to balance the image. This image has light behind a seastack from the sun, but the dark, larger shapes on the left help to balance it.<br />
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Try to incorporate some of these ideas in your images, or not if you choose...but work to improve composition every day; be creative as a child again.Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-11261881489614067132016-06-20T05:35:00.000-07:002016-06-20T05:40:18.247-07:00Learning light Light is the life force of all landscape photographers; it can make or break an image. Learning about light should be your primary goal if you are a landscape photographer. This is an easy primer about light and the difference it can make in an image. Underexposing a stop will often increase the color saturation when shooting at the edges of light. Use graduated neutral density filters, polarizers and solid neutral density filters as needed.<br />
It is important to remember that when shooting sunrise or sunset there are clues that tell you where you are in the progression of light and time. When shooting at sunrise there a change of hue giving an indication of the progression of daylight beginning with the predawn colors: blue, lavender, pink, red, orange, yellow...all of these may appear quickly one after the other and when it hits the yellow color, that's when you are about finished with sunrise.<br />
Sunset is the opposite but after sunset you may be able to continue shooting for quite a while in the twilight hours, even continuing into darkness if you choose to photograph the stars. So here is the progression of sunset: yellow, orange, red, pink, lavender, blue, then black...remember that an hour after sunset there is twilight with beautiful blue skies for photographing cities enabling the buildings to stand out against the sky; whereas with a black sky, the buildings have no edges and disappear.<br />
Also, in the mountains and sometimes along the shore there is a brief moment of alpen glow when the sky suddenly lights up with a pink color after the sun sets.<br />
Here are some examples of the effects of light on an image:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-B-CQyd4WNoHoPDE8ZttAht_3bS8aY_OUlXp0MF4eJ3UMNCL3QtHpfccSLF-UYYmGqksf2uatKLpdMZJs3IP6_HNRzEH5aqS3MGPlH-nMUuXLVWuCyWggQHB3d6dhO3U3_giu0cHzth6W/s1600/_80A7816.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-B-CQyd4WNoHoPDE8ZttAht_3bS8aY_OUlXp0MF4eJ3UMNCL3QtHpfccSLF-UYYmGqksf2uatKLpdMZJs3IP6_HNRzEH5aqS3MGPlH-nMUuXLVWuCyWggQHB3d6dhO3U3_giu0cHzth6W/s320/_80A7816.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4Ae49wqt_oo/V2fhoAcAiwI/AAAAAAAAEDI/D8k9j10YM9IVBLtu_o_XzWfW91BeqmwGACLcB/s1600/_80A7818.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="175" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4Ae49wqt_oo/V2fhoAcAiwI/AAAAAAAAEDI/D8k9j10YM9IVBLtu_o_XzWfW91BeqmwGACLcB/s320/_80A7818.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
In the upper image, the light is too pale; it was shot a little too early for good color...the lower image was shot shortly afterward when the sun had almost set and color was intense.<br />
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Here in the Andes at Mt Fitz Roy: the first image was taken too late after sunrise so it is washed out..the lower one was taken as the sun hit the mountain directly and lit up the red granite.<br />
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The two images below show the effect of photographing in a short time...the sky in the image at bottom was taken right as the sun came up and lasted about 10 seconds..but it gave some color to the sky. The image below on left was taken a few seconds later when I put the camera in vertical position, however, the light was over.<br />
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Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-44040697996411545122016-06-08T10:15:00.002-07:002016-06-08T10:24:36.288-07:00Fun With Fisheyes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hallgrimskirkja in Iceland</td></tr>
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You have heard about fisheye lenses and have often seen them used for many weird images:<br />
people with huge distorted faces, pets with massive noses, bent horizons, bizarre buildings, etc. Do you want to use one?<br />
Of course!<br />
The fisheye lens can create absolutely amazing images unlike any other lens. The distortion of the fisheye lens compared to a rectilinear lens adds a completely new dimension to photography: creativity. And as photographers we want to be creative, don't we? But as with all good things, there can be bad results, therefore the lens must be used with discretion and only when it adds to an image, not detracts.<br />
I have a Canon 15mm F2.8 fisheye. It goes everywhere with me; do I use it a lot? No.<br />
A fisheye lens is very light and usually small, therefore it is easy to bring along in your bag or in a pocket. You don't need filters, it would be hard to fit one on the bulbous front lens element, so if I am shooting, the bracket ability of my camera takes away the element of surprise when I review images.<br />
By bracketing, I can combine the sky in one image and the foreground in another if necessary...many times it is not...<br />
I have found that there are certain times a fisheye can do wonders for an image. Night sky images can be incredible. My thought process is simple: if it looks like a fisheye will add something to my composition, I try it...at least by trying the lens, it can be ruled out if the composition fails.<br />
There are even telephoto fisheyes... many manufacturers have fisheye lenses: Canon, Nikon, Sigma, Rokinon.<br />
The lens I have was about $600...they are usually under $1000...some can be found used at Amazon for a lot less.<br />
Here are some examples that may get you motivated to rent or purchase a fisheye:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In this image, taken in Canada on a frozen lake, the camera was tilted down...when you aim down<br />
with a fisheye the horizon becomes a semicircle and curves upward like the earth</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In this image, the camera was tilted up, thus the horizon lowered to give a dished image.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If you can position the horizon dead center with your fisheye, it will be almost level and show very little distortion.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">fisheye in a canyon<br />
Looking up in a canyon at some ice climbers works well with a fisheye...anytime you are in a canyon and looking up, a fisheye can add extra punch to your image because it causes a circular form which the human eye loves.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t5YNZuGAQg4/V1hQC02pyZI/AAAAAAAAEB8/8We2LnJlArwHPNLafka0dWs6LrxpdwVSwCLcB/s1600/_MG_4806.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t5YNZuGAQg4/V1hQC02pyZI/AAAAAAAAEB8/8We2LnJlArwHPNLafka0dWs6LrxpdwVSwCLcB/s320/_MG_4806.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is Cape Kiwanda in Oregon; on this side of the cape there is a long peninsula reaching into the ocean. I thought a fisheye would capture the whole scene in a dramatic way...it seems to work<br />
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There are times at night when a fisheye can add a large amount of sky plus do good things to shapes in the foreground...the rocks in the next image are immense, but the fisheye compresses them in a unique way.<br />
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and as a final image, the fisheye can do some bizarre things to the interiors of abandoned buildings...this is an abandoned boarding house:<br />
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A few more thoughts on a fisheye: remember that you can get incredibly close to a subject, sometimes just inches depending upon the lens...mine will focus down to a foot away...also, remember that the field of view is an incredible 180 degrees, something that no rectilinear lens can give you. The widest rectilinear lens is the Canon 11-24mm which has a field of view of 126 degrees.<br />
Try it, you'll like it!Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-35355120043868631242016-05-30T13:41:00.000-07:002016-05-30T13:43:20.161-07:00What would you do?There are weird things that happen when shooting; cameras stop working sometimes, there are issues with the best way to shoot an image, and other things that might crop up; here are a few questions with some answers that may help you when in distress:<br />
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Q. What do I do when shooting raw, running out of space on the memory card and forgot to bring another?<br />
A. Switch to shooting in jpeg large..you will have a lot of space on the card...better to get a jpeg than nothing.<br />
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Q. My camera gives me an error message or stops working: (start with #1 and work your way down the list if nothing is working.) How do I prevent myself from tossing the camera into the ocean?<br />
A. 1. remove and replace the battery; power up again.<br />
2. replace the battery with a new one.<br />
3. after doing the above, and camera isn't right, return to default camera settings.<br />
4. upload the latest firmware<br />
5. Call a rep from the manufacturer. (Actually, this happened to me. The ability of my camera to auto focus was lost, I couldn't get the center focus to even appear on the viewfinder; the rep was able to talk me through some weird button strokes and the auto focus worked afterward.)<br />
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Q. The sky is bright blue, I'm shooting with an ultra wide angle and there is a dark blue blob in the middle of the image. What do I do?<br />
A. Take off the polarizer or turn it so there is a negative effect...polarizers cause uneven skies on ultra-wide lenses.<br />
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Q.I am photographing a waterfall, it is cloudy but the water is very reflective..what should I do?<br />
A. Use a polarizer to cut the glare and slow your shutter speed to get flowing soft water.<br />
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Q. I am at the beach at sunset, but the darn sun is too bright on the horizon..How do I control it?<br />
A. Use a reverse Neutral Density filter...it is darker in the middle, put the darkest part on the sun.<br />
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Q. I am at the beach and want the water to look misty and ethereal..what do I do?<br />
A. Use a polarizer and a 5 stop ND filter for a long exposure...use an aperture of around f16 or f18<br />
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Q, I am stuck shooting in the middle of the day on vacation...it is sunny, bright, blue skies with harsh shadows...how do I handle this?<br />
A. Bracket three images. convert them to an HDR image, then use a program like Silver Efex Pro to convert to black and white...because of the HDR treatment, the image will be dynamic in black and white.<br />
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Q. It is a cloudy, windy, overcast day...not good for photography...Is there anything I can do to shoot?<br />
A. Pull out a 10 stop ND filter...it will give the clouds movement and drama, convert to black and white.<br />
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<br />Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-11279750630426717112016-03-23T12:59:00.001-07:002016-03-23T12:59:26.674-07:00Leveling up your LandscapesHere is an article recently written for the Photographic Society of RI website:<br />
<a href="http://www.psri.us/2016/03/level-up-your-landscapes/">http://www.psri.us/2016/03/level-up-your-landscapes/</a>Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-61632217367488892202016-03-03T14:01:00.000-08:002016-03-03T14:05:24.488-08:00Get that Black and White FeelingThis is an article written for the Photographic Society of RI simplifying black and white photography.<br />
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<a href="http://www.psri.us/2016/03/get-that-black-and-white-feeling">http://www.psri.us/2016/03/get-that-black-and-white-feeling</a>Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-28709606751402279282016-02-17T05:32:00.001-08:002016-02-17T05:32:45.828-08:00Conquering sensor dustThis is an article written for PSRI about cleaning the sensor of your camera.<br />
<a href="http://www.psri.us/2016/02/conquering-sensor-dust/">http://www.psri.us/2016/02/conquering-sensor-dust/</a>Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-45129586459056701832016-02-17T05:31:00.000-08:002016-02-17T05:31:04.058-08:00Photographing the Winter LandscapeThis is an article written for PSRI about photographing in winter:<a href="http://www.psri.us/2016/01/the-winter-landscape-own-it/">http://www.psri.us/2016/01/the-winter-landscape-own-it/</a>Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-4535015852517141712016-02-15T06:48:00.002-08:002016-02-17T05:29:09.871-08:00Shoot for the Stars<br />
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<dt class="wp-caption-dt" style="-webkit-user-drag: none;"><img alt="light painted rocks at Arches National Park" class="size-full wp-image-6088" data-mce-src="http://www.psri.us/psricms/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Jan-23.jpg" src="http://www.psri.us/psricms/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Jan-23.jpg" height="570" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; display: block; height: auto; max-width: 100%;" width="760" /></dt>
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Admit it! A lot of you are afraid to shoot the stars at night: afraid of mistakes, blurring, messing up the images somehow. Well, I am here to help you succeed with a few simple tips that will get you on the right track: good images right from the start. It isn't hard at all but you must follow my formula at first, then you can feel free to try other options after you get some experience.</div>
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First, there are some important things to remember about night photography: cameras and lenses.</div>
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<li>A full frame DSLR will give the best results. Why? Because the pixels are larger, therefore more photons are absorbed and less noise is visible. If you have a mirrorless or APS-C sensor, try it and see if the noise can be controlled.</li>
<li>A fast wide angle lens. Glass is god at night...if you have a cheap lens forget night photography, so invest in one good quality wide-angle lens if you are serious about night photography. I usually use a Canon 15mm F2.8 fisheye because it can give 180 degrees of view: more sky is better in night photography; my other lens is the Canon F 2.8 24-70mm. You can use an F4 lens: I have used the Canon 17-40mm. All these images were taken with one or the other of those two lenses. Fisheyes can be amazing at night; I correct the perspective in PS and noise in ACR (adobe camera raw).</li>
<li>Sturdy tripod with ballhead: I have a <a data-mce-href="http://www.gitzo.us/" href="http://www.gitzo.us/">Gitzo</a> that is over 10 years old with a <a data-mce-href="http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/" href="http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/">reallyrightstuff ballhead</a>. This stuff is kind of expensive but there are loads of other options out there.</li>
<li>To shoot star points you don't need a cable release unless you think it looks cool.</li>
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Ok, now that we have our equipment ready. What next? Get your night infinity setting! During the day, you are going to go into "live view" on your camera, make sure you have the wide angle lens attached and set the widest F-stop you have: F1.4, F2.8, or F4 with the camera on Aperture Priority. ISO isn't important for this part, whatever works for you; let the camera choose shutter speed. Put your lens on "manual"(MF) not automatic: this is to get the infinity setting you will need. Point the camera at an object about thirty feet away and set the live view to 10x : there is usually a button to enlarge the live view image. While in this mode, focus with the focus ring manually until that object is absolutely sharp, then review the image for sharpness: if it is sharp, look at the setting on the distance scale, it is usually just short of the infinity mark; the infinity mark is not a good place to put the lens as it keeps searching for infinity. You will find that the sharpest point will be perhaps a quarter or half inch left of the infinity mark. Memorize this spot! If you can't remember this spot on one lens, tape it with an easily removable tape. Do this procedure in daylight or you will go crazy at night.</div>
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Now you are ready to go!</div>
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The Milky Way is pretty weak in the Northern Hemisphere between December and February. It is more vivid in summer...the featured image of the light painted rocks at Arches was taken in January; the Milky Way is visible but faint. The following image was taken in Rhode Island, at a beach, in the middle of summer. Notice the difference.</div>
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<dt class="wp-caption-dt" style="-webkit-user-drag: none;"><img alt="Milky Way over Charlestown " class="size-full wp-image-6089" data-mce-src="http://www.psri.us/psricms/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/80A9552.jpg" src="http://www.psri.us/psricms/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/80A9552.jpg" height="768" style="-webkit-user-drag: none; display: block; height: auto; max-width: 100%;" width="952" /></dt>
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Ok, now you are excited to go: grab the camera, tripod and put the lens on the camera. Make sure you do the following things:</div>
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<li>Put the camera and lens on manual. Be certain to shoot in RAW.</li>
<li>Set the distance scale on the lens to the infinity setting you figured out during the day.</li>
<li>Set the aperture for the fastest F-stop on your lens. It is 2.8 for me.</li>
<li>Now, this is important, so pay attention: If your widest aperture is 1.8, use an ISO of 1600, if it is 2.8 use an ISO of 3200, if it is an F4, use 6400. These are good starting points, and may need adjustment up or down depending on results.</li>
<li>I usually use Auto White Balance and by shooting in RAW, you can adjust the color of the image in PS.</li>
<li>What about exposure length? Now comes the math part, but you can do this! The most important number is 500 for night photography (some people use the number 400) OK, what is this 500 thing?</li>
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Here is how it works: Your exposure is your focal length multiplied by seconds but less than 500. simple isn't it? If your focal length multiplied by time in seconds exceeds 500, you will not have star points, but star blurs or short trails and it looks like hell. Another important point: don't let your seconds ever exceed 30 since the Earth is rotating and the rotation will be obvious in stars at a greater than 30 second exposure. You want to get as close to 30 seconds to allow more light into the camera, but not exceed it. Sounds complicated but it isn't: here are a couple of examples: my F 2.8 lens is 15mm and I want to get as close to or at 30 seconds but not exceed it or the 500 point:</div>
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15 x 30= 450 so that keeps my exposure under 500 and not above 30 seconds...</div>
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So my camera setting would be: F2.8, ISO 3200, 30 seconds (at the infinity setting) with an Auto White balance.</div>
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If I had a F4 and 24mm lens: 24 x 25 seconds would give me 600, which is too high...so I reduce it to a 20 second exposure and it gives me 24 x 20=480. There is the best setting: F4, 20 seconds, ISO 3200, (preset infinity setting), and AWB.</div>
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Look at each image and make sure it is clear: x10 on the LCD. If the image is too dark, go up to the next ISO..If 3200 is not giving enough light, use 6400...I personally don't use long exposure noise reduction as it doubles the exposure while it shoots a dark frame.</div>
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Another important item: I always bring a strong flashlight to light something of interest in the foreground...it will improve your night images if there is some foreground element of interest. This is when you can practice a little light painting. If you don't want to light paint, shoot the foreground before dark, then combine it with the night sky image taken much later in the same spot.</div>
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Shoot away from light pollution on crystal clear nights with little moisture in the air. Also, there are apps for your smartphone that can help locate the Milky Way for you: I use Stellarium, but there are others: StarWalk and SkySafari.</div>
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Practice will make your images amazing...be sure to dress warm while shooting at night or you will get cold and cranky and as everyone knows: multiplying cold x cranky= bad images.</div>
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Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-13776089892412418762015-12-02T05:34:00.002-08:002015-12-08T05:58:42.126-08:00webinar on Nov 30I was asked to do a webinar on landscape by a local professional photographer..here is where it can be viewed:<br />
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EI2IIhK1Wo8Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-52264856125680713922015-11-05T04:25:00.003-08:002015-11-05T04:25:43.589-08:00Why I photograph every day....<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7HneaV2fRMhXmckh-xCSZLwF9liu_dpSCaBUNY5V9C5Vj-MAZnyDByMvcSztL1urk-MVMk2qIXcCGT0dPqlTmLozBYQJ7s7CXGmwYQpn2LJN6PYj3z59q7yGzfyJ9VYlllNvtPRHUQmTb/s1600/IMG_4726+-+Copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7HneaV2fRMhXmckh-xCSZLwF9liu_dpSCaBUNY5V9C5Vj-MAZnyDByMvcSztL1urk-MVMk2qIXcCGT0dPqlTmLozBYQJ7s7CXGmwYQpn2LJN6PYj3z59q7yGzfyJ9VYlllNvtPRHUQmTb/s320/IMG_4726+-+Copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ4IS6ty-VAiiyKQSrV4cZMKZNlNUzqC1PiBvSY9y8MpOY96lPs_qf4nVTkgCm3iGoIllAq9iTN81lequJoEp3RNcqH7k8n4R94RbHjsNO1qR0sUw-NtxGEfWQqcvlXh0jWgpawLV866PK/s1600/IMG_4837+-+Copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZ4IS6ty-VAiiyKQSrV4cZMKZNlNUzqC1PiBvSY9y8MpOY96lPs_qf4nVTkgCm3iGoIllAq9iTN81lequJoEp3RNcqH7k8n4R94RbHjsNO1qR0sUw-NtxGEfWQqcvlXh0jWgpawLV866PK/s320/IMG_4837+-+Copy.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
Here are two photographs taken near my house, in what is remaining of the dense forest that used to surround me until people started moving in and taking it down piece by piece...I walk here every day with my dog and during this time I carry a point and shoot Canon G15 camera...there are mornings or afternoons when it seems there is absolutely nothing to photograph; it is then that I take the camera out of my pocket and start to really look, forcing myself to find something, no matter how insignificant, to photograph. It may sound ridiculous, but it works..<br />
If you ask any great musician or painter, they will tell you that it takes hours and hours of practice to become proficient...Picasso didn't paint once in a while, he painted constantly, trying different techniques, always learning...Monet spent his older adult life in one place, painting constantly in his garden; Winslow Homer almost his whole adult life painting the ocean and coast...there is a lesson to be learned here, if you want to photograph better and develop an eye for photography and the graphic structure that is important for good images, it must be practiced.<br />
Going on a tour once or twice a year and shooting will not do it! Wherever you live, take your camera, no matter how boring that area may be, you will find something of value if you look..and if you say, "I don't have time"...then make time.Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-18713533364927924082015-09-23T13:56:00.000-07:002015-09-23T14:05:03.586-07:00self assignments<h1 class="entry-title" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Tahoma, Arial, Verdana; font-size: 20px; font-weight: normal; line-height: 23px; margin: 0px 0px 5px; padding: 0px;">
Self Assignments</h1>
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<span class="date published time" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" title="2015-09-23T08:41:25+00:00">SEPTEMBER 23, 2015</span> BY <span class="author vcard"><span class="fn"><a href="http://www.psri.us/author/dragonlady/" rel="author" style="color: #cf152a; text-decoration: none;">MARION FARIA</a></span></span> <span class="post-comments" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: url(http://www.psri.us/psricms/wp-content/themes/platinum/images/icon-dot.gif); background-origin: initial; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: initial; margin: 0px 0px 0px 3px; padding: 0px 0px 2px 10px;"><a href="http://www.psri.us/2015/09/self-assignments/#respond" style="color: #cf152a; text-decoration: none;">LEAVE A COMMENT</a></span></div>
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What is a self assignment? Why would you do it?</div>
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A self assignment is a way to improve your photography by forcing yourself to shoot an image a day for a week, a month, even a year. Last year and into this year I gave myself a one year assignment: shoot an image a day for 365 days…I was very difficult, it probably gave me OCD and lingering effects, but it was a challenge to me as a photographer…some images sucked but others were very good…and it made me really look at the world every day with a unique vision. Now, I am not suggesting that you try a one year challenge, but an image a day for a week, or an image per week for 52 weeks, or one per day for a month…it will challenge you, and by forcing yourself to photograph, you improve and push toward being a better photographer.</div>
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Or you could choose a certain subject and shoot it for a week: a ball that you carry around and flip into the air in different areas of the state, your pet at different moments, even kitchen utensils in weird unexpected areas…be a kid again…use your imagination. But remember to always do your best when trying this project. There were a couple of times I had to take a hiatus from the 365 project before I went crazy because the images were not good. Don’t shoot for the sake of getting an image for that day: shoot until the image is what you wanted to achieve artistically and technically.</div>
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A few years ago, on a David Middleton workshop, he challenged us to photograph with a lens that we seldom used. For me, it was my 24-70mm F2.8: it was my primary night photography lens; never used during the day…After a meltdown, I was forced to use it all day in Galilee and the results surprised me. Many images were good after I got the hang of moving around closer to my subject and being more creative with that lens…so try a lens you never use often and learn to use it.</div>
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Many of us are busy and don’t have time…but sometimes in your life, it is important to make time for what you love…If you enjoy photography, why not make a small effort toward being more creative and having fun, too.</div>
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Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-31433190491243060292015-09-23T13:54:00.001-07:002015-09-23T14:03:20.415-07:00the workshop dilemma<h1 class="entry-title" style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: Tahoma, Arial, Verdana; font-size: 20px; font-weight: normal; line-height: 23px; margin: 0px 0px 5px; padding: 0px;">
The Workshop Dilemma</h1>
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<span class="date published time" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" title="2015-09-17T11:31:06+00:00">SEPTEMBER 17, 2015</span> BY <span class="author vcard"><span class="fn"><a href="http://www.psri.us/author/dragonlady/" rel="author" style="color: #cf152a; text-decoration: none;">MARION FARIA</a></span></span> <span class="post-comments" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: url(http://www.psri.us/psricms/wp-content/themes/platinum/images/icon-dot.gif); background-origin: initial; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: initial; margin: 0px 0px 0px 3px; padding: 0px 0px 2px 10px;"><a href="http://www.psri.us/2015/09/the-workshop-dilemma/#respond" style="color: #cf152a; text-decoration: none;">LEAVE A COMMENT</a></span></div>
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If you are a novice photographer, it is important to try to improve as much as possible and if you are a member of PSRI, it means that you want to learn more about photography. Attending a workshop can help elevate your images to a better level; however, it is essential to attend the correct workshop for you. A tour is not a workshop: it implies an intermediate to advanced knowledge of your camera and photography, and usually involves a tour leader getting you to the best places to shoot with minimal personal assistance. A workshop, on the other hand, is ideal for beginning photographers but there are some things you must do before attending a workshop; things that will help it be a success for you.</div>
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I have attended many workshops and tours, some of which were amazing, and some that were almost disastrous and everything in between.</div>
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These checkpoints may assist you in choosing the correct workshop:</div>
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<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px;">Know the tour leader’s work. Check his/her website. If you don’t like their photography, what’s the point in going with them?</li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px;">Know your style of photography or your tendencies when you shoot. If you like landscape, don’t do a portrait workshop unless you want to try that genre.</li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px;">Read your camera manual. Know the basic operation of your camera..a workshop leader will have other people to help, too and if you monopolize the leader, there may be revenge from others…you want to return home in one piece.</li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px;">Get a tripod…if you want sharp images, this is a must…</li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px;">Know your limitations…if the leader lists the itinerary and it requires miles of hiking to an area, be certain you are capable of doing it. Personally, I love the work of Marc Adamus, but I am too darn old to camp and hike long distances, which is what his tours usually involve, so I don’t go and embarrass myself.</li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px;">Be prepared with the correct clothing for the conditions…I was on a tour in Canada when it was February with temps -29F and one woman showed up in jeans, tshirt and light cotton jacket…</li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px;">Find out what camera equipment is necessary…try to bring a spare camera body. If your camera goes belly up, it will be on the workshop.</li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 20px; padding: 0px;">If you can talk to others who have been out with the workshop leader, it will give you a realistic idea of what to expect.</li>
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Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-72795981342206922852015-09-23T13:53:00.001-07:002015-09-23T14:01:29.964-07:00using a fisheye<br />
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The Amazing Fisheye</h1>
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<span class="date published time" style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px;" title="2015-09-13T10:07:51+00:00">SEPTEMBER 13, 2015</span> BY <span class="author vcard"><span class="fn"><a href="http://www.psri.us/author/dragonlady/" rel="author" style="color: #cf152a; text-decoration: none;">MARION FARIA</a></span></span> <span class="post-comments" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: url(http://www.psri.us/psricms/wp-content/themes/platinum/images/icon-dot.gif); background-origin: initial; background-position: 0% 0%; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: initial; margin: 0px 0px 0px 3px; padding: 0px 0px 2px 10px;"><a href="http://www.psri.us/2015/09/the-amazing-fisheye/#comments" style="color: #cf152a; text-decoration: none;">3 COMMENTS</a></span></div>
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These are examples of a fisheye lens image. It can be a lot of fun to use but there are a few caveats that are important when using a specialty lens like the fisheye. If you position the horizon toward the top of the image, the result is a curved shape like the surface of the earth at a distance…</div>
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Here is an example:</div>
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<a href="http://www.psri.us/psricms/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/MG_1871.jpg" rel="shadowbox[sbpost-4860];player=img;" style="color: #cf152a; text-decoration: none;"><img alt="_MG_1871" class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-4862" height="181" src="http://www.psri.us/psricms/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/MG_1871-300x181.jpg" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 1px solid rgb(230, 230, 230); display: inline; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 4px;" width="300" /></a></div>
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If you position the horizon low in an image, the shape will be inverted and give a totally different feeling to an image, such as this example:</div>
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<a href="http://www.psri.us/psricms/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/MG_9940.jpg" rel="shadowbox[sbpost-4860];player=img;" style="color: #cf152a; text-decoration: none;"><img alt="_MG_9940" class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-4863" height="218" src="http://www.psri.us/psricms/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/MG_9940-300x218.jpg" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 1px solid rgb(230, 230, 230); display: inline; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 4px;" width="300" /></a></div>
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If you position the horizon dead center in an image, the distortion is reduced and gives an extreme wide angle effect of about 120 degrees<br />Here is an image with the horizon almost dead center:</div>
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<a href="http://www.psri.us/psricms/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/MG_9612.jpg" rel="shadowbox[sbpost-4860];player=img;" style="color: #cf152a; outline: none;"><img alt="_MG_9612" class="alignnone size-medium wp-image-4864" height="155" src="http://www.psri.us/psricms/wp-content/uploads/2015/09/MG_9612-300x155.jpg" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 1px solid rgb(230, 230, 230); display: inline; margin: 0px 0px 10px; padding: 4px;" width="300" /></a></div>
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My own fisheye lens is 15mm…</div>
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It is also important to note, that if you have an APS-C or smaller sensor, the effects are minimal. I would recommend a fisheye lens only on a full frame camera. There are adjustable fisheye lenses available…this lens can give an image great impact; it can also ruin an image. It must be used with discretion.</div>
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Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202202945868768320.post-6357615778391202542015-08-17T05:25:00.000-07:002015-08-17T05:25:29.756-07:00Milky Way<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWPG6tUnzZhqrf-aVqHC2N9hdQuDnvi7Y15weAw7CDzZvxpDWEzFeE17fS2S0UhQmU46EeR5hZsM7hwWvAOUgbK8YMg76bTM9y_KDUCK9Q6fuFvHXS6z7sQdUEkEjpUkaPxcUzgOJCs_nn/s1600/_80A9556.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWPG6tUnzZhqrf-aVqHC2N9hdQuDnvi7Y15weAw7CDzZvxpDWEzFeE17fS2S0UhQmU46EeR5hZsM7hwWvAOUgbK8YMg76bTM9y_KDUCK9Q6fuFvHXS6z7sQdUEkEjpUkaPxcUzgOJCs_nn/s320/_80A9556.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
This image of the Milky Way, an arm of our spiral galaxy, was taken at the Charlestown Breachway in Rhode Island...it is a difficult area to photograph: light pollution is always an issue here in RI plus there is a trailer park behind me with lights and fishermen with headlamps...however, the lights did serve as fill light for the rocks of the breakwater, so it wasn't all bad.Marionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04730586991102367641noreply@blogger.com0